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toh:tp-link:tl-mr3020 [2013/11/02 21:58]
sancho Warning for V1.8 and original firmware restoration.
toh:tp-link:tl-mr3020 [2014/04/02 17:09] (current)
lq4yy ad section power consumption
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| v1.7 | 2012-05 | 12.09-RC1, Trunk  ([[https://dev.openwrt.org/changeset/32786|r32786]]) | AR9331 chipset | | v1.7 | 2012-05 | 12.09-RC1, Trunk  ([[https://dev.openwrt.org/changeset/32786|r32786]]) | AR9331 chipset |
| v1.8 | ??      | 12.09-RC1 (tested), Trunk (tested) | AR9331-AL1A; internal serial port has no pins, only solder-pads (P1 clearly visible) | | v1.8 | ??      | 12.09-RC1 (tested), Trunk (tested) | AR9331-AL1A; internal serial port has no pins, only solder-pads (P1 clearly visible) |
 +| v1.9 | ??      | 12.09 (tested)      | AR9331-AL1A |
The current release The current release
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    * 5.7 cm x 5.7 cm PCB     * 5.7 cm x 5.7 cm PCB
    * 6.7 cm x 7.4 cm x 2.2 cm case     * 6.7 cm x 7.4 cm x 2.2 cm case
 +
 +=== Power consumption ===
Input voltage: the router will function correctly when powered with voltages as low as 3.3 Volts (determined experimentally) instead of 5 V USB-Power. Thus, it can be powered directly from one single Li-Ion battery (which usually starts fully charged at 4.2 V and has a nominal voltage of 3.7) without the need for an external 5 V adapter. Input voltage: the router will function correctly when powered with voltages as low as 3.3 Volts (determined experimentally) instead of 5 V USB-Power. Thus, it can be powered directly from one single Li-Ion battery (which usually starts fully charged at 4.2 V and has a nominal voltage of 3.7) without the need for an external 5 V adapter.
 +
 +This router is standardly powered via USB at 5V. The voltage regulators' input voltage should be at least between 3.7V - 5.5V, but not over 5.5V. The device will get damaged at too high voltages*. Maximum current draw at 5V is 255mA (Active Download + LAN + WLAN + USBboot), average current draw with WiFi is 125mA, idle is 68mA. Hence the average router power consumption is 0.6W, which is incredibly low.
 +
 +Power consumption will be higher if a USB device is attached to its USB port!
 +More information and a rough diagram here [[https://apollo.open-resource.org/lab:argus|Interesting webpage with more data about power consumption and so on]]
===== Installation ===== ===== Installation =====
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Wait for the progress bar to finish twice (the device will reset itself in the process), and [[toh:tp-link:tl-mr3020#basic configuration|proceed with basic configuration]] as with any fresh OpenWRT install. Wait for the progress bar to finish twice (the device will reset itself in the process), and [[toh:tp-link:tl-mr3020#basic configuration|proceed with basic configuration]] as with any fresh OpenWRT install.
-Web GUI upload has been confirmed to work with v1.0, v1.4, v1.6, v1.7 and 1.8 hardware revisions and requires no serial access unless something goes wrong.+Web GUI upload has been confirmed to work with v1.0, v1.4, v1.6, v1.7, v1.8 and 1.9 hardware revisions and requires no serial access unless something goes wrong.
See [[https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?pid=154203#p154203|forum]] if you encounter problems. See [[https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?pid=154203#p154203|forum]] if you encounter problems.
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  * Connect the TL-MR3020 to your computer via ethernet   * Connect the TL-MR3020 to your computer via ethernet
  * Power on the TL-MR3020   * Power on the TL-MR3020
-  * When the WPS Button starts to blink , push it until it blinks faster+  * When the WPS button starts to blink
 +    * on AA (Attitude Adjustment / 12.09) push the WPS button; 
 +    * on BB (Breaking Barrier / trunk) move the sliding switch quickly from one side to the other. 
 +  * Do this until the WPS button starts blinking faster.
  * The device is now in Failsafe-Mode   * The device is now in Failsafe-Mode
  * You may access it by using **telnet 192.168.1.1**   * You may access it by using **telnet 192.168.1.1**
-Info on resetting to open wrt defaults can be found at: [[http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/howto/generic.failsafe#in.failsafe.mode|generic.failsafe]]+Info on resetting to OpenWrt defaults can be found at: [[http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/howto/generic.failsafe#in.failsafe.mode|generic.failsafe]]
==== Downgrade Attitute Adjustment from Trunk ==== ==== Downgrade Attitute Adjustment from Trunk ====
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{{:meta:icons:tango:dialog-warning.png?nolink |Warning!}}**WARNING:** On V1.8 even if you succeed with firmware upload, after the router reboot the web interface will not work and you will not be able to return either to OpenWRT, nor to working original flash. What's even worse is, that the HW revision is only visible on the inside of the router - on the Ethernet port sticker, so you have to open the device up. {{:meta:icons:tango:dialog-warning.png?nolink |Warning!}}**WARNING:** On V1.8 even if you succeed with firmware upload, after the router reboot the web interface will not work and you will not be able to return either to OpenWRT, nor to working original flash. What's even worse is, that the HW revision is only visible on the inside of the router - on the Ethernet port sticker, so you have to open the device up.
 +
 +{{:meta:icons:tango:dialog-warning.png?nolink |Warning!}}**WARNING:** There is common scenario that the device is unable to boot after uploading incorrect firmware. Some people advice to obtain an original image with no boot-loader included (the file does NOT contain work "boot" in it's name). It worked for me when I downloaded file "mr3020nv1_en_3_14_2_up(120817).bin" and flashed it with mtd command. I've downloaded the file from [[http://www.generalfiles.biz/download/gs636c1925h32i0/TL-MR3020_V1.00_120817.zip.html|here]]
First, set the mode switch to //WISP//. Without it, you might have trouble connecting after the reboot. Connect via ssh/telnet/serial and use the following commands: First, set the mode switch to //WISP//. Without it, you might have trouble connecting after the reboot. Connect via ssh/telnet/serial and use the following commands:
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To get a reliable serial connection, **you might have to connect a 10k pullup resistor** between TX and VCC. This is because the TX pin is connected to a voltage divider (2x5.6k) and a capacitor is put between the real pin and the TX connector. Some serial adaptors might work without the pullup resistor (confirmed for one ST3232-based adaptor), but others definitely require it (confirmed for a FTDI FT232RL-based model). To get a reliable serial connection, **you might have to connect a 10k pullup resistor** between TX and VCC. This is because the TX pin is connected to a voltage divider (2x5.6k) and a capacitor is put between the real pin and the TX connector. Some serial adaptors might work without the pullup resistor (confirmed for one ST3232-based adaptor), but others definitely require it (confirmed for a FTDI FT232RL-based model).
-If you need a serial adaptor, you can build a [[http://buffalo.nas-central.org/index.php/Use_a_Nokia_Serial_Cable_on_an_ARM9_Linkstation#Preparing_the_Cable|serial hack adapter]] (DKU-5, CA-42). Relatively cheap, off-the-shelf and known-to-work alternatives would be SparkFun's [[http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873|FTDI Basic Breakout 3.3V]] and [[http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9717|FTDI Serial Cable 3.3V]].+If you need a serial adaptor, you can build a [[http://buffalo.nas-central.org/index.php/Use_a_Nokia_Serial_Cable_on_an_ARM9_Linkstation#Preparing_the_Cable|serial hack adapter]] (DKU-5, CA-42). Relatively cheap, off-the-shelf and known-to-work alternatives would be SparkFun's [[http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873|FTDI Basic Breakout 3.3V]] and [[http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9717|FTDI Serial Cable 3.3V]] (the resistor is not needed with this specific cable).
The right settings for accessing the serial console are as follows: The right settings for accessing the serial console are as follows:
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The WPS button is located at the top (illuminated by the WPS LED) and can be easily pressed with a finger. The sliding switch is located at the side and has three positions: 3G, WISP, AP. The WPS button is located at the top (illuminated by the WPS LED) and can be easily pressed with a finger. The sliding switch is located at the side and has three positions: 3G, WISP, AP.
 +
 +Sample scripts to read the sliding switch: [[https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?pid=172111#p172111|on boot]], [[https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?pid=172110#p172110|on switch change]], [[https://gist.github.com/jefferyto/8010733|to change network configurations]]
 +
 +===== Bootloader Mods =====
 +  - you could read about [[doc:techref:bootloader]] in general and about [[doc:techref:bootloader:uboot|Das U-Boot]] in particular.
 +
 +==== U-Boot 1.1.4 modification for routers ====
 +Forum member [[https://forum.openwrt.org/profile.php?id=72549|pepe2k]] made a modification of **U-Boot 1.1.4** for **Qualcomm Atheros** SoCs based devices (the project is still being developed, so new devices and SoCs will be supported in the future). Up to date information, binary images and sources can be found on official [[https://github.com/pepe2k/u-boot_mod|GitHub repository]].
 +
 +This modification started from [[http://code.google.com/p/wr703n-uboot-with-web-failsafe/|wr703n-uboot-with-web-failsafe]] project, but supports more devices, all modern web browsers, has a lot of improvements and other modifications (like U-Boot NetConsole, custom commands, overclocking possibilities etc.).
 +
 +More information:
 +
 +  * Official repository on GitHub: [[https://github.com/pepe2k/u-boot_mod|U-Boot 1.1.4 modification for routers]]
 +  * Discussion about this project on [[https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?id=43237|OpenWrt forum]]
 +  * An article (in Polish) about one of the first version of this project on [[http://www.tech-blog.pl/2013/03/29/zmodyfikowany-u-boot-dla-routerow-tp-link-z-atheros-ar9331-z-trybem-aktualizacji-oprogramowania-przez-www-i-konsola-sieciowa-netconsole/|www.tech-blog.pl]]
===== Hardware Hacks ===== ===== Hardware Hacks =====
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==== External Antenna Hack ==== ==== External Antenna Hack ====
-{{:toh:tp-link:tl-mr3020-wlan-antenna-hack2.jpg?450}} +{{:media:mr3020-antenna-rpsmamod.jpg?450}} 
-{{:toh:tp-link:tl-mr3020-wlan-antenna-hack4.jpg?450}}+{{:media:mr3020-antenna-pigtailmod.jpg?450}}
If you want to add an external antenna connector or would like to know more about the MR3020 power consumption in different op-states you can find more info [[https://apollo.open-resource.org/lab:argus#modifications|Apollo-NG MR3020 External Antenna Hack]] If you want to add an external antenna connector or would like to know more about the MR3020 power consumption in different op-states you can find more info [[https://apollo.open-resource.org/lab:argus#modifications|Apollo-NG MR3020 External Antenna Hack]]

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toh/tp-link/tl-mr3020.1383425896.txt.bz2 · Last modified: 2013/11/02 21:58 by sancho